Setting up a reef tank is exciting. Looking at it will give you many hours of pleasure, no doubt about it. Maintaining a reef tank and taking the time to service both the aquarium and the equipment is, however, a task that cannot, and never should be taken lightly as it is both complex and necessary.

Many areas can become causes for concern if the aquarium is not well taken care of. Many imponderables may enter the picture, and many things can happen to your tank and its inhabitants that you cannot find an explanation for. It may very well be that no one can. Indeed, the seawater environment in your aquarium is an extremely complex system. Many chemical and biological reactions occur at the same time, and continuously, and affect the well being of all the animals in the tank. You may not have control over all of these reactions, but there are a great number over which you do.

We believe that we have covered the latter in this book in enough detail to give you the ability to be in control of your aquarium, and not the opposite. You must rethink your whole approach should the latter happen to you. It is not a good sign, and is likely to bring about problems down the road. "You" must be in charge.

2.1 THE AQUARIUM:

Typically, the aquariums that you will contemplate buying are made of glass or acrylic material, the latter often referred to by one of its trade names: Plexiglass, Lucite, etc.

Whereas acrylic tanks are very popular nowadays, especially on the West Coast, and are gaining popularity in the East, glass tanks still constitute the majority of aquariums sold.

Which exact type that you decide to buy is not really material. You should, nevertheless, know the following about each type:

• Glass tanks are heavy, not as easy to drill, but do not scratch as easily as acrylic ones do. They are usually less expensive. Glass tanks, contrary to what you may think, can withstand quite a bit of abuse. Drilling them may seem like a chore, but it really isn't. Glass places in your area, or even some pet shops, will do so for you at a nominal cost.

Keep in mind that glass is fragile and must be handled with some care. The tank needs to be absolutely flat (level) when it is set up, especially if you are going to drill holes in the bottom plate. This prevents stress in the glass. Stress can lead to the tank rupturing. A most unpleasant experience. You need to ensure that it is level when you set it up. Once it is filled with water it is too late to do so. The tank will be too heavy to be moved, plus, the stress created may make the glass crack.

Glass tanks are held together with silicone glues. These glues have now been so perfected that they will hold for decades. Well made tanks have no air bubbles in the silicone joints. If you see such air bubbles, at least if there are too many of them, do not buy the tank. Look for a better made one if you can. Be fussy, you do not need sloppy workmanship on your aquarium.

Every type of glass, with the exception of tempered glass, can be drilled. If the glass is tempered, it will usually say so. A sticker will have been affixed by the manufacturer. Why you should want to drill holes in the bottom of the tank may not be clear to you now, but it will be, after you progress through a few more chapters of this book.

If you decide to make your own tank, which some hobbyists do, keep the above remarks in mind. Incidentally, silicone glue can be removed with Toluene or Xylene. These can be found in paint shops.

The thickness of the glass used in making the aquarium, is determined more by the top to bottom measurement, than by the length. Long tanks should preferably be braced across the top (front to back), to prevent bowing. Most tanks bow somewhat, but such should be minimal, and no reason for concern. Tanks that bow excessively may require a top brace, or may have to be taken out of service.

Because glass is easy to clean, it is often preferred for tanks where algal growth is expected. You can use razor blades to scrape off the algae from the glass, but if you are not careful, you will soon have scratches. Best is to use one of the many aquarium glass scrapers that are available in pet stores. Alternatively use crinoline, a plastic based fine mesh that is often used in dressmaking. It works very well and removes even the most stubborn algae without too much effort being required.

• Acrylic tanks are lighter, can very easily be drilled, have more complete tops (which may inhibit light going into the tank somewhat), and scratch more easily than I personally care for. Because they are light, they are easier to move around and work with when setting them up. A 300 gallon tank, for instance, made out of 1" acrylic such as the ones manufactured by BioZone, can be moved by 4 people without too much difficulty.

Scratches on the outside can be removed rather easily with special compounds that are available (buffing compounds). It is when scratches appear on the inside that problems come about. They can only be removed after the water level has been lowered. Such is not a task that most hobbyists look forward to, or want to have to deal with.

Acrylic warps easily. Tanks must be braced, and usually are. Tall tanks must be made out of thick acrylic, lest they will balloon. Some bonding agents used in constructing these tanks blush over time, making unsightly marks around the edges. Some acrylic, especially the imported brands, are of real poor quality and are not suited for aquarium use. If you decide to build your own, get only US made quality. I prefer Dupont's Lucite. Ask for it specifically.

Because of the way acrylic aquariums are braced, they may restrict the light going into the tank. This may not be apparent right from the start, but will become a problem after salt deposits settle on the underside (tank side) of the top braces. You should, therefore, watch for such deposits, and remove them on a regular basis (clean).

• I have used both types, and have no real personal preference at this point. I used to lean towards the glass tank, but have lately seen some real high quality work in the acrylic variety as well. It is therefore a personal judgment call that you must make. Talk to some other hobbyists, or pet stores, and get their opinion as well. BioZone, a relatively new company, in Bridgeport Ct, does some real fine work. So does Summit Aquatics of Fulton, Mo.

Acrylic is easy to drill. All you will need is a set of the right kind of tube drills, and a strong electric power tool to do. When drilling, ease out of the groove that develops, from time to time, to prevent buildup of acrylic chips. Practice on a piece of scrap before actually drilling the tank. This will give you the assurance that you need when actually working on the aquarium.

As time goes on, better types of acrylic will be used in aquarium building, perhaps making them less prone to scratching, and less to bowing as well. On the positive side, the ones available now are already of excellent quality and any improvement is, therefore, a boon. Acrylic tanks are probably the way future tanks will be built in years to come.

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