9. THE MAINTENANCE AND HUSBANDRY SCHEDULE:

Throughout this book references are made to many husbandry and maintenance practices, and how important both are to the well being of the tank and what you keep in it, as well as to the life expectancy of the equipment and instrumentation that is used to run it.

Maintenance is defined here as taking care of your equipment to keep it working and in optimum condition, so its useful life will not be shortened, and in the case of instruments, so they will give you accurate readings. A lot of the equipment and the instrumentation differ so greatly from what hobbyists have been accustomed to use that they fail to see the need to care for either. True, most of the filters you bought earlier were in need of very little maintenance, which was a plus and made the hobbyist's life easier. Unfortunately this is no longer so. The equipment used on reef tanks needs to be maintained to keep it in good shape. The instruments need to be adjusted from time to time, and the electrodes need to be cleaned and calibrated.

Because most of the items used on reef tanks are more sophisticated and in many respects more temperamental, the hobbyist needs to spend time caring for them. This is not unlike what you would do with a sports or high performance car, for example a Corvette or a Porsche, or with camera and video equipment. Advanced technology used on reef aquariums falls in the same category. It must be taken care of and cared for if you plan to get it to work for you for a long time.

Husbandry is the agglomeration of all other tasks that need to be performed to keep the tank in vibrant looking condition. It includes all that is done to maintain the water quality at optimum levels, and the testing necessary to achieve it. Cleaning the tank and the filters, and testing water quality parameters are a major part of it. Husbandry is always necessary. This is especially so when the tank looks in good shape. The reason: you want to keep it looking that way. Slacking off on your husbandry will, without fail, result in lowered water quality and all the problems associated with it. Don't lull yourself into believing that because your tank seems to be doing fine that you do not need to service it. Quite the opposite.

Husbandry includes three other major tasks that you must perform continuously: changing water on a very regular basis to prevent the build up of compounds that are not removed by any of the traditionally used filtration methods; topping off the tank when the water level drops due to evaporation; and most importantly taking remedial action whenever the water quality parameters are out of line. All three work together to give you the objectives you are after: a tank that looks "alive", and animals that live for a long time.

The listing given here is as complete as possible, but is not exhaustive as you may, possibly, be using equipment that we have not included, or are not aware of. You may, therefore want to add to it if necessary.

A complete husbandry and maintenance schedule looks overwhelming to many hobbyists. It really is not, because you are not performing all the work in one session. Adhering to it as closely as you can is important, as the text of the book should have made clear by now.

The listing includes certain tasks that may not have to be performed on a regular basis but are included to remind you that they should be considered as well, one example is obtaining a complete water analysis from your town or city's water supply company.

Obtain water analysis: At least once a year. Twice a year is better. Free in most cases.
Mechanical Filters: Clean a minimum of once a week. More often is better. Change medium frequently.
Chemical Filters: Clean once a week, if needed. Change activated carbons required by test (yellowing test).
Change Poly Filters: When color tells such is needed. Usually when dark brown.
Pumps: Open and clean once every 3 months or sooner if noisy or if algae have gotten into volute.
All ball valves: Clean at least once every 3 months.
Check valves: You should clean frequently. 16 weeks. Test your check valve by turning off pump and check whether any water comes through.
Skimmer: Empty scum cup as often as needed. If too much moist foam collects, re-adjust the skimmer.
Skimmer Collection container: Check level everyday and empty when necessary.
Ozonizer (depending on type): Clean when needed (see instruction manual). Some do not need cleaning.
Air stones in skimmers: As soon as bubbles become larger. Usually every 3-4 weeks.
Tubing on ozonizers: Check for leaks every few weeks. Ozone smell around unit should be an indication if needed sooner.
Overflow box: Once every week is a real minimum. Visually inspect more often.
Siphon overflow box: Once a week if needed. Clean pre-filter as often as needed. Prevent it from clogging and restricting the water going down to the trickle filter.
Uneaten food: Do not overfeed. Remove as soon as you notice any. Prevent decay, take it out immediately.
Foot valve (if used): Once a week. Clean the screen.
Power head pump intake: Once a week if needed, inspect visually first.
CO2 reactor: Clean every 4-5 weeks. More if needed.
Oxygen reactor: Check often to adjust pressure as needed. Run between 3 and 6 psi.
Spray bar (if used): Clean holes frequently every few days if yours seems to slow down.
Drip plate: Check at least once a week.
Teeth around siphon box: Inspect often to prevent (comb-like) water from rising in the tank.
Sump: Remove visible detritus whenever you see any.
Balls or Plastic media: Do not touch at all. Always leave biological media alone. Touching it and cleaning it destroys bacteria.
Air pump: Replace diaphragm on regular basis to ensure good air supply at all times.
X-nitrate: Replace when nitrate level starts to go back up.
Denitrator: Inspect visually often. Odor will tell you a lot. Test effluent once a week. Look for possible blockage of water flow. If needed clean that area.
Molecular absorption discs: Rinse once a week, replace when color is dark brown or black.
Bottom of tank: Remove visible dirt and detritus as soon as you notice it. Prevent decay. Don't let it sit there. Remove it.
Algae: Remove dead or dying algae at once. Prevent decay.
Lights: Replace fluorescent tubes based on manufacturer's recommendation. Metal halides should not need replacement for a long time, 1000's of hours.
pH electrode: Visual inspection once a week. Determine whether cleaning needed. If so, clean. Calibrate after each cleaning. Clean at least every 4 to 6 weeks.
Redox electrode: Same as pH electrode. Clean more frequently. Every 4 weeks. Check accuracy with 465 mv solution every 4 weeks or more.
Heaters: Inspect every few weeks and clean if needed. Remove accumulated dirt, it reduces heating efficiency, and can cause problems.
Aquarium glass/acrylic: Clean as often as needed based on amount of algae growing on it. Use Ridalgex to reduce such growth.
Resins: Recharge when no longer removing nitrate, phosphate and/or silicate. Test effluent of each batch you prepare.
Substrate: Clean frequently remove all visible dirt, detritus etc. Siphon off whatever accumulates on the bottom that should not be there.
Air dryer: Re-charge every 3 days, or sooner during humid weather. Or get a stronger ozonizer that does not need an air dryer.
Micron cartridges: Change when water flow has been reduced by 50%.
Sub-micron filters: Inspect every few days and wash and/ or change as needed when water flow has diminished by 50% or more.
Micro-algae: Remove all micro-algae when they are still small in number. Scrape off, or use Ridalgex and then siphon dead material out.
Macro-Algae: Trim if growth is excessive. Change 10-20% water if large amount has been taken out.
Venturi Skimmers: Clean venturi when amount of air drawn in seems lower than usual. Use pipe cleaner or very small brush.
Water changes: 4 to 5% a week, or set up an automated water changing system.
Top-offs: As required by your rate of evaporation.
Salt: When changing brands test for phosphates and nitrate. Also test the salt you use now at least once.
Activated Carbon: Test for phosphate leaching before you use it.
KH Generator-buffer: Test the one you use to make sure that it does not leach phosphate or nitrate into the water.
Tap water (if used): Check regularly for nitrate and Phosphate.
Well water (if used): Check from time to time for nitrates and phosphates.
Deionizer effluent: Check each batch for nitrate and phosphates.
Reverse osmosis unit: After a couple of months of use start testing for nitrates and also for phosphates.
CO2 lines (if used): Check for leaks to prevent loss of carbon dioxide.
Accuracy of Redox: Check electrode reading with 465 mv standard solution frequently to ensure that your redox electrode is reading accurately. It many need cleaning.
Canister filters (if used): Check for good flow. Clean inside on a weekly basis. Detritus builds up inside. Prevent decay. Remove it.

TESTS

KH test: Once or twice a week adjust immediately if necessary. Use equal amounts of KH generator and Kalkwasser.
Residual Ozone test: Whenever you make a change to the ozonizer setting, or at least once a week.
Salinity: Check about once a week. More often if a lot of evaporation.
Specific Gravity: Same as salinity. Only one test is needed.
pH test: Monitor continuously with meter or controller, or test the pH at least once a week. Adjust if needed by using KH generator and Kalkwasser.
Nitrate test: Once a week is the minimum suggested.
Phosphate test: Once a week is also the minimum.
Nitrite test: Once every 2 weeks, unless you notice that your tank does not look good, then test more often.
Ammonia test: Every 2-3 weeks, except when tank does not appear in good shape.
Iron test: Once a week but only if you add fertilizers. If not, test once every 3-4 weeks.
Copper test: Once a month to ensure no Cu has gotten into your system.
Redox Potential: Monitor as often as you can and keep records.
CO2 supply: Check bottle pressure whenever you are nearby. Ideally, have small spare bottle available, so you won't run out.
Dissolved Oxygen test: Test once a week or more often, especially if something seems wrong with the aquarium
Temperature: Look at it often and correct if necessary. Lower the heater setting or consider getting a chiller.

Although this list is rather complete, and may include items that you do not use on your own tank, there many be some that are not included that you "are" using. If so, add them to the list and use the manufacturers' recommendations to determine when and how often they should be checked, cleaned, etc.

Don't be overwhelmed by the list. Many of the husbandry/maintenance steps take only seconds to perform. Many involve only a quick look at the device or item, and action is only needed from time to time. Testing is important as it will often tell you, in advance, that you may be looking at more serious problems if you do not act on a lesser water quality condition now.

Do not use old tests. Many of the chemicals used lose their potency, or their accuracy, as time goes on. No one can do anything about it. That is the nature of the chemicals. By old we mean tests that you have had for 7 to 8 months, and that may not even look that good anymore. Performing the test with such chemicals, and getting an erroneous result, does not tell you anything about the conditions of your tank's water.

Because tests can be expensive, shop around and buy from companies that offer kits, or test sets, that allow you to perform 50 or more tests with one set. Usually this will bring the cost of the test down to a reasonable level of less than a dollar a test for nitrate, phosphate and dissolved oxygen, and far less for KH and iron.

Whenever you are unsure about a result, do not use the ostrich approach. Don't put the result aside and forget about it. Do something. Call a shop, or call a company that specializes in reef products and get them to help you. If a water quality parameter is out of line you must correct the situation for the benefit of the tank's animals.

Always keep in mind that because a tank is a very small closed system, one small problem can very quickly lead to several larger ones. This is somewhat like a downward spiral. If one animal dies because the water quality if off, the water gets polluted even more because that animal died. This may lead to more die-offs and an even worse water quality, which can lead to even more dead fish etc. This can go on and on until you lose everything in your tank.

Do not let things get out of hand. React as soon as something wrong is established and identified. Reacting quickly will also give you the best shot at correcting the problem quickly without any damage to corals and invertebrates.

Back to Table of Contents

Back One Chapter

Top

Next Page

NetPets® Main Page

contact information Main Reference Library

The Fish Center